Both sides had little to play for – the Students already proclaimed champions, and Waterford denied a playoff berth last week – suggesting an open fixture full of potential. The visitors seemed to have read the script, forming an admirable guard of honour for the champions, before the hosts sprang into action, starting brightly only to be denied by a stern United rearguard.

The home side pressed for an opener, going close on several occasions before breaking the deadlock after 21 minutes. An incisive pass by midfield maestro and UCD captain Ronan Finn set up Ciarán Kilduff, whose neat touch on the edge of the box allowed him to ghost past the United defence and rifle a volley of clinical efficiency past the helpless Kevin Burns in goal.

As the half wore on, Waterford began to impose themselves and should have levelled the proceedings ten minutes later. A long ball from midfield caught the UCD offside trap exposed, enabling Paul Walsh to bear down on goal unmarked and unchecked. His tame shot, however, was easily saved by Gerard Bannon.

Finn continued to be imperious in midfield, once again setting up Kilduff with a penetrating pass, only for him to be outmuscled by Kearney in the United defence. College continued to press with Finn himself spurning a glorious opportunity in the 37th minute to double the champions’ lead; a great pass by Robbie Creevy across the goalface left Finn to miscue from six yards.

Waterford also continued to press, egged on by the vociferous away support eager for an equaliser. They very nearly got their reward in the 38th minute, as great work by John Kearney on the right wing left a teasing ball flashing across the UCD goalmouth before College scrambled it away.

By half time the Students were offering value for money, showing much of the emblematic flair of their successful title pursuit. However, whilst creative and incisive play may have been the hallmark of their season it seemed to have been left in the students’ dressing room. The first half was perhaps Jekyll; the second was almost categorically Hyde. In a brief three-minute period, United seized the initiative and put paid to any victory parade in front of their expectant crowd.

The three-minute madness began on 59, as United scored controversially. A cross swung in from the right wing looked to have been handled before being toe-poked by Willie John Kiely into the UCD net. The goal stood, much to bemusement of the UCD rearguard.

Less than a minute later United grabbed a second in equally bizarre circumstances. A long-range shot by Vinny Sullivan struck the post and rebounded off UCD goalkeeper Bannon, giving United a freakish lead.

United compounded Bannon’s misery three minutes later and killed off any chance of a winning end to the season for UCD. Slack defending in the students’ rearguard allowed Sullivan to slice open the defence and fire past a helpless Bannon, giving United a commanding 3-1 lead.

The Bowl was stunned into silence, barring the ever more vocal support of the colourful visiting contingent. The boisterous away section was mired in smoke as a result of a number of flares being released, causing confused parent and toddlers to relocate to more gentile surroundings.

Things only got worse for the Students, however, as right-back Evan McMillan heroically intervened to stem the tide and deny United a fourth, only to be injured in the process. Emboldened by their rapid-fire brace and a weakened UCD rearguard, with their tails up United continued to press until the final whistle. On 77 minutes a piledriver from United’s Alan Carey hit the underside of the crossbar; mere millimetres separating United from an elusive fourth.

The game would not see another goal until stoppage time when David McMillan belatedly pulled one back for the Students – his glancing header finishing off an inch-perfect cross from Chris Mulhall – to leave the final score at 3-2.

One could forgive the students their apathy; with the title already won, many seemed to have their minds on forthcoming home games against the likes of Shamrock Rovers and Bohemians. UCD – lacking the guile, invention and much of the creative flair that delivered the title – will ultimately care little about the defeat in the wider scheme of things; there are bigger fish to fry in the coming months.

It was supposed to be so different. In a sharp divergence from his much-criticised predecessor, President Obama vowed to compel the United States into binding commitments to reduce greenhouse emissions in his landmark bid for election. Along with many other promises this new approach heralded a refreshing change in position from the World’s largest emitter. However in what has effectively become the hallmark of the Obama presidency, his best intentions are once again floundering on the rocky partisan politics of the US Senate.

World leaders will gather in Copenhagen in December in an effort to hammer out new targets for the reduction of carbon emissions. The result would be a treaty that would replace the outdated Kyoto Protocol. The architects of Kyoto could never have envisioned that it would still be the modus operandi of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) some twelve years after its first draft.

The convergence of global leaders, climate scientists and the world’s media in Copenhagen in just over a month was supposed to be a watershed moment in the global effort to curtail climate emissions. Increasingly, though, it looks like the planet will once again be consigned to diplomatic horse-trading and token gestures that have come to epitomise these initiatives.

There are two main problems for Obama in committing to sizeable reductions in the emissions of carbon. The first will be getting a climate bill passed before Congress in time for the next round of talks in Copenhagen. Were such a bill passed it would invariably strengthen his position on the issue domestically and allow Washington to commit to specific reduction targets.

The current climate bill however remains buried under the weight of healthcare and economic proposals that consume much of the Senate’s time. The effect of this is that it seems increasingly unlikely that any climate bill will appear before Congress in time for the talks in Copenhagen.

The latest round of UNFCCC talks held in Bangkok a number of weeks ago revealed the extent of US intransigence on the issue. In essence the US Senate has made clear it will not sign up to any Kyoto-like agreement giving specific targets for countries and punish them financially if they do not meet their respective mandatory target. This makes it extremely difficult for Obama to support a Kyoto-like agreement for Copenhagen, which has drawn consternation from many developing countries.

The United States never joined the initial effort to reduce carbon emissions in 1997 under the remit of the Kyoto Protocol. Its ambivalence toward this foundation agreement arose in part due to a lack of mandatory targets for developing industrial behemoths such as China and India.

The US is the biggest hurdle in reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Along with China it accounts for roughly 40 per cent of carbon emissions worldwide. At the recent UN convention on climate change in New York in September, there was much hyperbole and rhetoric but little commitment. Obama outlined no definitive targets, wary of pledging the US to something that would invariably fail in the Senate.

The second arduous task needed to reach agreement in Copenhagen is financing. America and other developed countries will almost invariably have to pick up the bill for any significant cut in carbon emissions. The World Bank estimates that developing countries are seeking up to $100 billion a year to convert to cleaner technology to aide them in carbon reductions yet still keep them on a firm economic footing.

The question of who picks up this tab will be among the most contentious issues under discussion at Copenhagen. Invariably it will fall to the European Union and the United States to take the lion’s share of this. However it will be a particularly difficult prospect for the Obama administration to convince sceptical Senators, who are already dubious about the merits of such reductions.

An ever more cataclysmic scenario has unfolded in recent weeks. Deep rifts have emerged within the EU as to how to pay for to any new climate bill. Newer accession states such as Poland and Romania feel slighted that they should be ask to stump up money for the pollution of countries they consider wealthier, such as Brazil.

There are also deep divisions among the wealthier members of the EU. Germany has led a cohort of nations unprepared to divulge how much they are willing to spend per year on pollution abatement technologies for developing countries.

The net effect of such bickering has resulted in the EU Commission stating that it would only commit to its “fair share” of the burden. Had the EU offered definitive numbers on the issue it would have placed enormous pressure on the other naysayers primarily the US and Japan to do likewise.

Unfortunately it seems that a new Protocol is ultimately destined to fail even before talks have begun in just over a month’s time. Inevitably there will be much haggling and posturing but little to show for what has amounted to 12 years of lobbying and initiatives by the UNFCCC. Unless the debate moves to Washington it will remain mired in black smoke.

On a miserably wet night, UCD fought back to forge a vital victory in the most unlikely of circumstances against a feisty Longford Town side keen to upset the odds.

Confident of victory beforehand, College laboured against their journeymen opponents. With nothing to play for, the visitors displayed tenacious and resolute defending to frustrate their hosts for most of the game.

UCD started brightly with a succession of corners in the opening period, blitzing the overwhelmed Longford defence. Centre-back Sean Harding sliced open the Longford rearguard after fifteen with an incisive pass to Ciaran Kilduff, whose attempt to round Aaron Shanahan in the Longford goal was just narrowly foiled.

The students continued to press and in the 20th minute, centre forward Evan McMillan spurned a glorious opportunity to put College in front. After great work by Paul Corry on the right flank, McMillan headed weakly at Shanahan.

UCD, employing a 4-5-1 formation for much of the first half, dominated possession in midfield, but couldn’t find the crucial final pass.

Longford slowly began to assert themselves as the game developed. On the half, hour a great save by UCD keeper Gerard Barron from Longford’s centre forward, Tom King, was matched by an equally impressive tackle from UCD captain Ronan Finn to deny Longford Town an unlikely lead.

UCD should have broken the deadlock after 34 minutes with great play by John Reilly on the right side. Dispossessing the Longford defence, Reilly set up Kilduff to put in a teasing ball, flashed across the goal face narrowly missing Evan McMillan to deny the students what would have been a certain goal.

UCD continued to press down the right flank looking for an opening only to be denied by the stubborn Longford backline, who were lucky to find themselves level at the break after some dominant play by the Students.

College started the second half poorly, conceding in the 49th minute against the run of play: a cross swung in by King found an unmarked Derek Glynn to tap into an empty UCD net. The opening goal shocked the Bowl into silence such had been the Students’ dominance. Indeed, the goal seemed to galvanise the visitors who sensed an upset might be on the cards.

There was a palpable sense that UCD might surrender this game with potentially devastating consequences for their promotion bid. UCD boss Martin Russell urged his young charges forward in a bid to rescue the game.

When College had a goal disallowed for offside in the 73rd minute it seemed as if it was to be one of those frustrating sporting nights, especially when the hosts were deprived an equaliser – a goal line scramble involving three Longford Town players denied the outstretched Kilduff after Ronan Finn’s searching cross.

Despite Longford’s heroic efforts in defence, UCD eventually got the equaliser they deserved. In the 81st minute, a cracking finish from David McMillan on the half volley struck the underside of the crossbar to break the resolute Longford defence. It was only McMillan’s spectacular finish that enabled the Students to finally break tenacious Longford defending and level at 1-1.

UCD went in search of a winner, and two minutes later stunned their opponents into submission. McMillan was again the architect, cut down unnecessarily in the Town box by Jordan McMillan, who duly received his marching orders for his second bookable offence. Talismanic captain Ronan Finn stepped up to coolly slot past Shanahan in the Longford goal and give the Students a 2-1 lead. Delirium erupted at the Bowl, which now bore a striking resemblance to Hill 16 as chants of “you’ll never beat the boys in blue” rung out from the stand.

Scenes of all-round relief greeted the final whistle. College left it late, but displayed the grit and determination of champions to keep them firmly in control of their own destiny and heap further pressure on bitter rivals Shelbourne as the season reaches its climax.

UCD cemented their position at the summit of the League of Ireland First Division with an impressive display against a poor Wexford Youths side that struggled to keep pace in this one-sided encounter.

The Students, eager to secure a Premier Division berth, produced a solid performance to heap further pressure on fierce rivals Shelbourne as the season enters its final month. Youths, who came into the game on the back of a comprehensive win against Limerick, could not have expected to be on the receiving end of such a first half onslaught.

The Students looked dangerous from the off, with Chris Mulhall carving open the Wexford defence with intricate passing, only for Peter McMahon to blaze wide from just outside the six yard box.

College continued to press for the opener with centre back Sean Harding delivering passes deep into the Youths’ half, causing chaos in the hapless Wexford backline. The majority of the first half was played deep in Youths’ territory, allowing Harding and Mulhall to push forward and create openings.

There was a sense of inevitability about the opener. A wonderful strike from just outside the box by midfielder Paul Corry was acrobatically tipped over by Youths’ keeper Packie Holden. From the resulting corner, Corry’s darting run left him unmarked at the near post to glance a header past Holden to give the Students a thoroughly deserved lead in the 23rd minute.

Corry continued to torment the Youths, causing mayhem in the Wexford defence. His intricate passing consistently broke the Youths’ rearguard, with the final touch letting the Students down.

UCD continued to press for a second and their efforts were rewarded just before half time. The imperious Mulhall ghosted past two Wexford players on the right wing, delivering an inch-perfect pass into the box and allowing centre forward Ciaran ‘Killer’ Kilduff to clinically slot past Holden, giving the Students a comfortable 2-0 lead. Kilduff’s fine finish was just rewards for an utterly dominant UCD side.

The Students competed up until the half time whistle, with the desperate Wexford defence in total disarray. The break could not come soon enough for Mick Wallace’s charges, who only managed a solitary shot on target in the opening half.

The second half coincided with the arrival of mist, perhaps a by-product of the hairdryer treatment Wallace was likely have unleashed on his young side during the interval. His pep talk seemed to have worked, as Wexford began to hold possession much better in the second half and slowly grew more threatening. Spearheaded by good work in midfield, Youths began to string some neat passes together and open up the UCD cover. The Students appeared to enter a brief slumber, allowing their opponents back into the game.

Wexford pressed for an opening only to be denied by tough tackling from the UCD rearguard, in particular defender Evan McMillan, who produced a stunning tackle to deny Gary Sheehan from just outside the box in the 65th minute. McMillan’s bone-crunching intervention acted as a call to arms for the Students, raising them out of their temporary paralysis.

Re-energised, UCD once again pressed forward in the hope of inflicting further misery on their opponents. In the 74th minute Kilduff was once again through only to see his weak shot easily saved. Neat touches by substitute Robbie Creevy saw UCD dominate the possession stakeholdings once again, and a probing ball from Ronan Finn spilt the Wexford defence only for Kilduff to head over after 85.

Youths showed little of their impressive away form that has been the hallmark of their season, looking tired and unable to match the physicality and intensity of their hosts, who were visibly hungry for a return to more hallowed pastures and illustrious opponents.

The Students, eager to make amends for their loss in the corresponding fixture back in April, duly dispatched their opponents. Though far from clinical, particularly in the second half, UCD ultimately strolled to a comfortable finish to set up a mouth-watering finale to the season.

UCD: Gerrard Baron, Sean Harding, Andrew Boyle, Evan McMillan, Ciaran Nangle, Chris Mulhall, Paul Corry, Ronan Finn, David McMillan, Ciaran Kilduff, Peter McMahon. Substitutes: Michael Leahy, Robert Creevy, Keith Wood, Graham Rusk, Billy Brennan

The eighties are back. Dodgy hair, dubious fashion, corrupt governments, mass unemployment, and – perhaps most worryingly for the UCD student – emigration have all returned in recent times. The dreaded e-word, scourge of so many generations of Irish people in the past, has raised its head once more, and the prospect of a ‘brain drain’ reminiscent of the eighties is taking shape with ominous signs for our economic future. Taoiseach Brian Cowen’s much vaunted ‘smart economy’ is fragmenting in the face of government intransigence.

Just over two weeks ago, the Central Statistics Office (CSO) published what many commentators had seen coming: net emigration had outpaced net immigration for the first time in nearly 15 years. According to Fine Gael’s Labour Spokesman, Damien English, “for the first time in a generation Ireland is again a net exporter of people, as a combination of rising unemployment and falling job levels drive people abroad.”

Analysing the CSO figures reveals that a total of 65,100 people left the state in the year up to April, whilst only 57,300 people entered Ireland. The emigration figure is up from 45,300 year-on-year, whilst the immigration figure plummeted from 83,800 to 57,300 in the same period – highlighting the first net emigration since 1995.

Many commentators attribute much of this emigration to the repatriation of the ‘Polish Plumber’ and his European compatriots, who helped swell the population during the boom. However, there is also a worrying Irish component to the migration: of the 65,100 who emigrated, some 30,400 were from new EU member states, while a staggering 18,400 Irish people choose emigration over economic capitulation.

Whilst this figure might not at first sound alarming, it is something that will invariably worsen as Ireland becomes further entrenched in an economic abyss. Financial experts have voiced their concern that emigration figures will almost certainly worsen due to additional economic contraction. The fact that the existing figures only go as far as April suggests that the next data sets from the CSO will be even worse. Rossa White, economist at Davy Stockbrokers, suggested “that these figures to April do not capture what seems to be faster emigration in recent months.”

The collapse of the construction industry is the key component in the rise of the emigration figures. A quarter of all jobs lost were in construction, compared with eight per cent in the economy as a whole. This would certainly explain the exit of a large number of migrant workers. The fact that the downturn in construction is now being matched by other sectors, where the prevalence of foreign workers is not as high, suggests the number of Irish emigrants will rise in tandem.

Dr Alan Barrett of the Economic and Social Research Institute issued a somewhat drastic prognosis for the emigration figures in the second half of the year, stating that “what we are seeing might be the tip of the iceberg in terms of the outflows.”

The government has so far had a laissez-faire attitude towards the problem. Many proposals in government-commissioned reports accentuate the problem of emigration among young people. According to the National Youth Council of Ireland (NYCI), government actions to tackle the recession will force more young people to emigrate. NYCI director Mary Cunningham suggests that the government is doing little to stem the flow of young people.

The NYCI has pointed out a number of proposals in these government-commissioned reports such as the McCarthy Report that serve only to augment the crisis. Most significant are the halving of jobseekers allowance for those aged 18-19, a cut of jobseekers allowance for those aged 20-24 by 25 per cent, proposals to cut the minimum wage, as well as the shelved possibility of third-level fees. If the government acts on these recommendations it will simply worsen the situation.

The much-touted ‘smart economy’, ubiquitously cited by a host of government figures for the last decade, will almost certainly lay in ruin unless drastic action is taken to support young graduates. The reintroduction of third-level fees, while commendably stalled, would do little to contribute to our economic health in the long term. Instead, myopia like this will only harm our longer-term economic goals by preventing access to education for many young people.

The recent spectacle of hundreds, among them quite a significant number of professionals, eagerly queuing for part time jobs in Marks & Spencer should act as a wakeup call to the government about where our economy is headed. Unless it acts decisively, any chances of the heralded knowledge economy will merely become another CSO migration statistic. The current regime seems determined to push for reforms that will extinguish any hopes of obtaining their economic Eden. Given our current predicament, such actions are far from smart.

The start of another Premiership season brings the inevitable question of whether anyone can end the dominance of the Big Four and secure a coveted Champions League qualifying spot. Arsenal, Chelsea, Manchester United and Liverpool have more or less dominated the top four since the League’s inception. Predictions on which club might achieve this include the usual cast of Everton, Tottenham Hotspur and Aston Villa, who have been hovering around fourth spot for the past few seasons.

It is Manchester City, however, who might provide the sternest challenge. After spending big this summer, the Citizens have put in an impressive start to the season, winning their first four games. Despite narrowly losing in a nail-biting derby the weekend before last, the manner of City’s defeat to their illustrious neighbours suggests that the men in sky blue can last the pace of a gruelling Premier League season. Despite having been decisively outplayed for much of the fixture, the game was still deadlocked at 3-3 in injury time, and probably would have ended this way had it not been for some debatable timekeeping.

Some canny signings at the start of the season espoused by the imperious Shay Given, combined with big names like Carlos Tevez, have turned City into formidable opponents. The fact that they were without two of their first team strikers, Robinho and Emmanuel Adebayor, and still scored three against an in-form United side at home, highlights the strength their squad possesses.

Unlike last year, Tottenham have also had an impressive start to the season, winning their opening four fixtures. Despite having been second best to Chelsea in the recent derby, and being humbled by a ten-man Manchester United at home – a pair of results that would rock the confidence of any squad – their 5-0 drubbing of Burnley should banish any doubts that Spurs can maintain a fight for Champions League entry. However, the schizophrenic form of captain Robbie Keane – scoring four one week and none for a month afterward – suggests that Spurs may be bound for Europa League football next season.

Everton’s start to the season has been disappointing and much of their campaign will depend on the form and fitness of Mikel Arteta and Tim Cahill. The absence of Arteta is one of the key factors that explain their current poor form. However, with Arteta still on the sidelines, they will struggle with the loss of their creatively influential playmaker. Having also lost Joleon Lescott to Manchester City, and lacking the strength in depth that City possess, Everton will struggle to challenge.

Aston Villa could be City’s biggest challengers for the coveted fourth spot. After a win over bitter rivals Birmingham, Villa seem to have gotten their season back on track after a wobbly start. However doubts persist, and last weekend’s scrappy loss to Blackburn does not augur well. The mood in the Villa camp has been soured by a training ground bust up between manager Martin O’Neill and Nigel Reo-Coker.

Although Villa possesses a wealthy owner in American billionaire Randy Lerner, the tycoon seems unwilling to part with his fortune, leaving O’Neill hamstrung in the transfer market. Villa’s loss of talismanic captain Gareth Barry to City has also left a gaping hold in midfield that has yet to be filled.

City will most likely put up the most significant challenge for the elusive fourth spot. With strength in depth, the ability to spend big in January and safe hands in Mark Hughes they are a good bet to end the quadropoly.

Ten years ago, China’s presence in Latin America was nominal at best. Its economic and political influence was minimal, it had no foothold in the Americas, and its prospects of gaining sway in the region looked bleak. The US, at the height of its power after the fall of communism and successful NATO operations in the Balkans, was master of all it surveyed. Through a mix of soft power and the threat of hard, it was able to bring most to heel – especially in its traditional sphere of orbit.
Washington could never have envisaged the situation currently unfolding. A decade on, it is a peripheral actor in many areas in Latin America. Leftist regimes in Venezuela, Ecuador, Bolivia, Nicaragua, and (to a lesser extent) Peru continually lambast American imperialism, and have poignantly turned to China. With a near insatiable appetite for raw materials and energy, Beijing has zealously capitalised on American intransigence.
A decade is a long time in politics. The matter of how the US could move from a position of such unilateral strength to one of weakness in a matter of years, invariably lies in the policies of the Bush presidency. A crass approach to foreign policy, especially in its own backyard, ensued – in which resources and efforts were dispatched to contest wars in the Middle East, while Latin America and its many problems were neglected.
Bush’s gung-ho approach to Afghanistan and his even more cavalier approach to Iraq generated much alienation. The rhetoric emanating from the administration also drew consternation from Latin American leaders. They began to look at less ideologically suited partners in an attempt to wean themselves of America.
While the US was preoccupied fighting its War on Terror in Afghanistan, and leading a merry-go-round in Iraq, China quietly increased its presence on the continent. Trade between China and Latin America soared eightfold, from $12.6 billion in 2000 to $102.6 billion in 2007. China’s newfound influence can be seen in almost every sphere of economic activity such as oil and gas production, mining, infrastructural projects and defence contracts.
The election of a string of leftist populist leaders in opposition to American hegemony has strengthened China’s hand in economic but also political spheres. Hugo Chavez, Daniel Ortega, Rafael Correa and Evo Morales have lambasted American influence in the region, and pointedly turned toward China.
It is not just leftist regimes that China is currying favour with. Trade with countries such as Argentina, Chile and Uruguay has also increased dramatically. In a bold move, China has agreed to replace the dollar in trade with Argentina, a $10 billion arrangement that will allow Argentina access to Chinese Yuan to pay for Chinese imports. This deal has been touted as an alternative to the prevailing system of world trade in which the dollar is dominant, much to the benefit of America. The symbolism has not gone unnoticed in Washington.
Most worryingly, however, have been relations between China and Brazil. In the first six months of this year, China became Brazil’s single biggest export market. This is augmented by the fact that the Chinese Development Bank and the emerging oil giant Sinopec have lent Petrobras, Brazil’s state-controlled oil company, some $10 billion in return for 200,000 barrels of oil a day.
This recently led US Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton, to declare: “If you look at the gains particularly in Latin America, that China is making it’s quite disturbing”.
Coupled with their substantial stakes in Venezuelan and Ecuadorian oilfields, China’s newfound prowess is a strategic nightmare for Washington. With traditional oil sources dwindling, and few signs of replacements on the horizon, the US has been out-manoeuvred in front of its own eyes. The importance of energy resources will become ever more apparent in the coming years as supplies dwindle in tandem with increasing Chinese acquisition of existing reserves in the region.
America’s traditional hegemony over Latin America evolved out of the “Monroe Doctrine”, the recognition in the early 19th century that any interference from outside powers would inevitably clash with their interests. The “neglect” of South America by US policymakers under the Bush Presidency has cost Washington many of these important interests. As the first salvo of a long-term geopolitical tussle with China begins in earnest, this loss will prove much more costly in the years to come than either of the wars in Afghanistan or Iraq.
The election of Barack Obama signalled a shift in US relations with many Latin countries, most notably Cuba. The question now is whether Obama will be able to act swiftly and decisively to contain the dragon from flexing its wings even further into America’s back yard.

Cocaine, Pablo Escobar, Shakira, Fauntino Asprilla, and coffee are just some of the images mentioned when Colombia comes to mind. It is a country that has never failed to grab headlines, mainly for the wrong reasons. Long periods of civil strife, punctuated by terrorist atrocities, have at many times paralysed the country, keeping it off-limits for travellers. However, less commented-upon in the world press has been Colombia’s economic resurgence over the last decade. There is no time like the present to explore this enigmatic nation before it becomes part of the ‘Gringo Trail’.

San Agustin, an archaeological treasure trove set amidst the shimmering emerald foothills of the Andes, is one of Colombia’s – if not South America’s – most alluring attractions. The area, home to one of the more colourful civilizations that populated the continent before Spanish colonisation in 1499, has an estimated 500 burial statues depicting people set admist spectacular mountainous scenery. Think Easter Island in the Andes.

Getting to San Agustin is a rather difficult undertaking unfortunately. It takes seven hours by bus to reach the town from the nearest city, Popoyan, which is only a distance of 110km away. This is due in no small part to the condition of the ‘road’ – or, more specifically, the lack of one. The important archaeological sites are housed in three main parks: the Parque Arqueologico, Alto de Los Idolos and Alto de Las Piedras. The latter two are best reached on horseback through spectacular gorges punctuated by coffee and the odd cocoa plant. The trails are steep and in many places quite dangerous, especially if it rains, but the rewards are magnificent.

At nighttime, San Agustin can be quite tame and dull, with little options for nightlife owing to its size. Most travellers visit primarily to see the sights and relax in the enchanted surroundings. A few of the more intrepid come to sample the local varieties of mushroom before embarking on visits to see the statues, something which is not entirely recommended.

Due to the mild climate, with temperatures rarely dropping below 25˚C, much of the nightlife ends up on the streets, with impromptu salsa being the predominant form of traffic after dark.

In Colombia they often say that climate defines character. If that is true it’s fair to say that Cartagena, the so called jewel of the Carribean, is sweltering. Cartagena is radically different from many areas in Colombia; its climate, culture, and people offer yet another distinctive flavour to the Colombian cocktail.  This tropical city, centre of the Afro-Columbian community, is a heady mix of cultural influences that pervade all forms of life. The city is an architectural gem of grace and style.

Inside the towering bluffs that surround the city lies a fascinating medievality of colonial mansions, horse drawn carriages, towering spires and great restuarants. This beguiling mix however is much more expensive than many other areas in Colombia, with pesos being stretched to the limits. Most backpackers will not actually stay in the old walled city because of the cost, but rather in the historic and gritty neighbourhood of Getsemani just outside the walled city. At night, Cartagena can be a bit prosaic during the week (especially in the old town), but at weekends the city comes alive to the infectous rhythms of reggaeton and vallenato where young and old dance until dawn.

With its dizzying array of landscapes from the the Caribbean to the Amazon, great cities with thriving nightlife, and people with a zeal for life, Colombia is a country that will beguile visitors with so much more to offer other than outdated sterotypes and bland generalisations.